For spring/summer time 2026, Erdem seems to the multifaceted determine of Hélène Smith – the late nineteenth-century Swiss medium whose trances carried her throughout centuries, continents, and even planets.
Smith, whose visions had been each fantastical and controversial, believed she had lived a number of previous lives: as a member of the French court docket, an Indian princess, and a traveller on Mars.
These so-referred to as “Romantic Cycles”, as named by psychologist Théodore Flournoy, fashioned the mythos that each outlined and destabilised her.
The present opened with an hourglass mini gown crafted from collaged vintage lace remnants, embroidered with jet crystal symbols. This was adopted by a reversible trench coat in ivory metallised cotton, that includes a floral embroidered lining and lace-collaged detailing.
Florals emerged as a constant motif all through the assortment, showing in embroidery, prints, and appliqué – a testomony to the designer’s signature detailing and modern use of botanical themes.
A inexperienced washed satin trench coat featured intricate crystal elaborations, whereas a hand-quilted ivory cotton corset – adorned with jet crystal symbols – was paired with a mini skirt in ivory cotton twill, delicately embroidered with florals.
Metallised supplies added a futuristic gleam all through, nodding to Smith’s imagined life on Mars.
Other key seems included a striped cotton nightshirt and matching drawstring trousers, layered beneath a floral-embroidered pannier corset belt – a structured nod to historic silhouettes, reframed with fashionable irreverence.
A floral-printed chiné shirt and matching skirt supplied a softer, extra romantic interpretation of the recurring floral theme.
The color palette ranged from whites, greys, browns, and black, with color delicately launched by way of floral elaborations. This was interspersed with vibrant shades of inexperienced and pink – including a sense of vitality and distinction to the assortment.
This season, Erdem embraces the poetic dissonance of Hélène Smith’s inside worlds – merging fantasy, reminiscence, and creativeness into a idea that’s as intriguing as it’s stunning.