LFLend: The Cinki, Sieek, accompanit & Coltha, Jojër.

​London Fashion Week went hyper experimental this Sunday, with surrealist couture from Erdem, disgruntled debutantes at Simone Rocha, conceptual picnics Kent & Curwen, and full-on ergonomic sporty stylish at Johanna Parv.

Erdem: Surrealist stylish

No designer can boast of extra unlikely muses than Erdem Moralioglu, whose wellspring this season was a wantonly obscure surrealist artist named Hélène Smith.

Though that very obscurity helped encourage one other nice assortment from Erdem. Bloomsbury couture at its finest.
Catherine-Elise Muller, know artistically as Hélène Smith, was the dubbed the “muse of automatic writing” by the early Surrealists over a century in the past. Copies of these texts had been embroidered on lace chess piece sheaths densely embroidered with cloth petals and flowers, or on very good starch tulle corset cocktail or moulded bustier clothes.

Smith’s different declare to fame was her perception that she was a medium, capable of talk with the deceased Victor Hugo or Cagliostro. She additionally believed that by means of trances she had voyaged to the courtroom of Versailles, Rajasthan and even Mars.

The Versailles cycle represented by excessive lace-collared robes and shirts or structured paniers riffing on Marie Antoinette. While her imagined sojourn in India mangled together with her area journey in neon crushed embroidered linen sculpted clothes, worn on the forged marching in courtesan ribboned footwear.
A number of mannish blazers and striped double-breasted jackets had been in flip impressed by psychologist Théodore Flournoy, who revealed a e book on her voyages entitled, “From India to the Planet Mars”.
Smith ended up dying in full obscurity, however this Sunday in a powerful present underneath the columns of the British Museum she galvanized a second of trend glory.

Simone Rocha: Debutante Disgruntled

The afternoon led us to the Mansion House within the City of London, an apt location for the theme of Rocha’s extremely experimental – even by her requirements – assortment.

A protracted present – by London requirements – of 52 seems, most of whom jumbled up epochs and eras in an often disconcerting, although oft occasions, lovely method.
For subsequent spring, Rocha loves sateen georgette, floral jacquards and silk organzas, reducing them into crinolines, Venetian tailcoats or hoop skirts. Before promptly overlaying many of those very seems in clear plastic coats and trenches, completed in confetti prints.
“Disgruntled debutantes… A young woman forced to wear her mother’s clothes,” was the Irish designer’s definition of this spring/summer season 2026 assortment.
That was obvious within the opening seems: a refined organza crinoline embroidered with tiny flowers, mixed rebelliously with a silver sequin bra with black lace trim. Then adopted up by an outsized trapeze costume over which was plastered too enormous cloth flowers.

“I really wanted to push a button when it came to my fundamental codes,” added Simone, referencing the crinolines uncovered by means of semi sheer organza. Before including a soupçon of perversity by overlaying many clothes with mini corsets.
Revealing that when it got here to her personal mom’s wardrobe, Simone would put on her skirts as clothes pulled up excessive, the higher to reveal footwear. An important a part of Simone Rocha’s enterprise, which this season featured platforms with Georgian moulding or Perspex escarpins.
Her ladies’s garments had been intentionally not too ladylike, with numerous uncovered underwear. But her menswear was positively foppish: scarlet crimson jacquard cloaks worn with trumpet lilies, or a ruffled soutane seen on a mannequin carrying a ruffled satin pillow.
All pushed on by an ideal soundtrack by Frederic Sanchez that included chunks of Marianne Faithfull with the Prague Philharmonic and the demonic sounds of “King Night” by Salem.
No one might fault Simone for not taking dangers on this efficiency, which received her an enormous cheer and extended applause when she took a smiling bow.

Kent & Curwen: The united parks of London

A particular change of drugs and tone at Kent & Curwen, the place designer Daniel Kearns lightened temper and supplies, whilst he saved a good concentrate on the model’s three lions emblem and DNA.

Nice additionally to see an artfully produced present by producer Robin Scott-Lawson, the place a set of ten 10X20 foot LED screens projected pictures of a number of London parks that includes youngsters at play, soccer video games, boat journeys and splendid large aircraft bushes. Guests even obtained sensible striped blankets – superb for a picnic on Sunday, in a sunbathed UK capital.
An superb backdrop to the garments. They blended haute-couture materials like jacquard and chiffon with techy nylons, so the garments managed to function on a number of ranges. Creating an agreeably conceptual tackle such a storied model as Kent & Curwen.
Draping a fab brief tennis costume or an outstanding ivory coat costume, the place a blazer met a plissé chiffon skirt. Dreaming up white multi-petal swimsuits for ladies, and shirts for guys on this co-ed present. Going positively Japanese with chiffon minis topped by feathered bra tops.

Before returning to the model’s roots in daring graphic rugby colours utilized in pink and blue trench coats. And respecting its English roots with some nice sweaters embroidered with cloth roses, and a bravura finale of Photoshop English floral pants and tops for Kearns most investigational assortment for this home.

Johanna Parv: Sports, trend, motion

All-action ladies at Johanna Parv, the place the forged dashed concerning the catwalk in her daring and sensible imaginative and prescient of transformative sporty stylish.

Using techy materials, Parv creates garments that handle to be sporty, but skilled. Protective but stylish. Practical in altering climate situations, but smooth and classy. Plausible from a motorcycle journey to board room.
Kicking off the motion with fitness center exits – taut shirts and tops, dissected together with her motion luggage. Followed by impeccable sporty jerkins and pants lower diagonally on the ankle to recommend pace. Clever use of angled zips and ties made the garments look and be multi-functional.
The end result was a group that bolstered ladies’s independence by way of trend. From the up to date sheriff’s dusters in anthracite to the charcoal nylon monitor jackets, blousons and culottes. Also together with her a hybrid luggage, worn typically as backpack, different occasions as ergonomic fanny pack, and whilst wrap round messenger bag, attachable to a bicycle body.  Hence its identify – ‘Frame’. All of them regarded cool.
“Johanna Parv brings out the inner Lime rider in us all,” commented insightfully BFC CEO Laura Weir.

In her program notes, the Estonia-born designer referenced studying “Streetwalking the Metropolis” by Deborah L Parsons – a famed research of feminine writers’ experiences and perceptions of negotiating the city panorama. This assortment appears superb for right this moment’s city jungle.