From drawing silhouettes, hats and sneakers on the age of three, to exhibiting his first assortment at 13, Georgian-born clothier David Koma set about his trend profession at a remarkably early age. And after his mom gave him a e book on the perfect faculties on the earth, he determined to check trend at Central Saint Martins (CSM) aged 14.
“From that day, I knew I had to go to London,” Koma informed BoF’s industrial options director Sophie Soar on a current LinkedIn Live.
He was accepted into the distinguished design faculty, endeavor a BA in trend design. Following this, he accomplished an MA in trend underneath underneath the tutelage of the late Louise Wilson — an influential course director who taught the likes of Alexander McQueen, Phoebe Philo and Jonathan Saunders.
Koma launched his eponymous label upon commencement and in 2009, he received the Harrod’s Design Award — an accolade granted to excellent trend design graduates from throughout the UK. His graduate womenswear assortment was picked up by luxurious trend retailer Browns shortly after.
Since then, Koma has remained on the helm of his model, and in 2020, he received the British Fashion Council/Vogue Fashion Fund, after being shortlisted in each 2018 and 2019. He just lately expanded into menswear, exhibiting at Berlin Fashion Week.
Over the previous 20 years, Koma has additionally held the function of inventive director at French luxurious trend home Mugler from 2013 to 2017. He was later appointed inventive director of Italian model Blumarine in July 2024. Splitting his time between the 2 inventive director roles, Koma and his respective groups design 10 collections per 12 months.
In the newest BoF Careers LinkedIn Live broadcast, he shared his recommendation for beginning out in trend, the significance of originality and a transparent inventive imaginative and prescient.
For the total interview, watch our LinkedIn Live, Building a Career in Fashion with David Koma.
What drew you to pursue a profession in trend?
From a really early age, I was drawn to artwork and drawing. Fashion [turned out to be] the quickest strategy to make my artwork come to life.
From the age of three I was drawing silhouettes, hats and sneakers. I participated in my first designer competitors when I was 13 and I was the youngest participant. It actually [focused] numerous consideration [on] me and I was very excited. From that day, I knew [fashion would be] my profession.
Do you assume it’s essential to have a design diploma or formal coaching?
I do suggest it. I made so many buddies [at university] and it’s a secure area to experiment and study criticism, whereas constructing connections for the remainder of your life. […] [I valued the perspective] of my classmates. Because there have been so many college students from everywhere in the world, I might study opinions about the identical venture from totally different angles.
[…] But, on the similar time, there are lovely examples of various methods of attaining your goals and [a degree] is totally not a necessity. There are various inventive administrators who famously don’t have formal coaching and design levels.
Having technical abilities can positively result in extra responses when looking for your first job within the trade, as a result of there are numerous designers with lovely inventive capacity [without such skills]. You might be at a direct benefit over these solely with inventive abilities.
Depending on the model, there [may be] no must have a gorgeous hand drawing, nevertheless it’s at all times a bonus.
How did you achieve hands-on expertise earlier than launching your individual enterprise?
During my hole 12 months, I labored on my assortment and did a few internships. […] With design, in addition to the plain want for originality, creativity and [a] standpoint, there’s a enterprise aspect to run.
To perceive what it takes to run any form of enterprise — however particularly in trend — actually lets you study from different individuals. Plus, all of the hats you need to put on [while] interning makes it a really [valuable] expertise. It’s additionally doable the group and [the] individuals [you meet] will assist you […] and be very important to the way forward for your model.
Chemistry, stability, creativity and uniqueness are necessary however to maintain issues rolling and to [sustain a brand’s] longevity is one thing utterly totally different that I needed to alter to and study. It’s additionally necessary to grasp the stability [between creative and commercial] when trying to construct a group that grows with you and helps you.
How necessary are trend reveals for presenting collections?
I personally love trend reveals as a result of every little thing that you just’ve been engaged on for a few months turns into a actuality with the sound and set design. And, you will have the speedy response of your viewers.
At the identical time, there are such a lot of other ways of presenting — particularly now with entry to social media, everybody can discover a inventive twist and get consideration. Creating movies or robust imagery could possibly be as [impactful] as a present. Nowadays, the sky is the restrict.
How did you stability working at Mugler with working your individual label?
It was about believing in myself and maintaining my inventive soul alive, above every little thing else.
I was working my very own label from London. At the time of [stepping into my role at Mugler]I was desperate to develop, and I assume it matched the ambition and dedication I needed to obtain one thing greater and higher. That led me to this unimaginable alternative to work for such an iconic French mega home [Mugler].
How do you keep away from inventive overlap between Blumarine and your individual label?
Although it may be fairly tough [in general] to try this, in my case it’s simple as a result of it’s like speaking two totally different languages. Plus, on prime of that, each homes have their very own [distinct] id, archive and storytelling narrative.
So, there’s at all times a stability and a really clear imaginative and prescient. I think about it could possibly be a lot more durable to direct homes [with a similar style]. The incontrovertible fact that I work for a gorgeous heritage Italian home [that] already has a lot historical past behind [it] actually helps me to conceptualise it otherwise.
With my continued work at Blumarine, my day-to-day is [busy]however I completely find it irresistible. It [involves] numerous travelling on prime of motion between London and Milan. There are numerous totally different shoots, fittings and conferences with extremely attention-grabbing individuals. So preserve believing, preserve pushing. It’s not at all times simple, however it’s enjoyable.
With 10 collections to develop annually, how do you keep impressed every season?
Ideas can come from wherever — from artwork or trend. […] I have real curiosity and I at all times say I preserve an imaginative cabinet with concepts. It additionally relies on having the proper concepts and ideas that may be drawn on for various ideas at totally different factors.
If you keep true to your self and preserve pushing, there can be a spot so that you can shine.
[…] Having a assist system is essential. In my case, I flip to my fantastic group — and the truth that I realized find out how to belief [them] actually helps me to have a free-spirited area for me to be excited and be creatively charged.
Where do you see alternatives rising for the following technology of designers?
Every decade wants new expertise. […] The proper inventive expertise will at all times shine — it doesn’t matter what’s occurring, it doesn’t matter what decade. If you keep true to your self and preserve pushing, there can be a spot so that you can shine. Not simply within the UK but additionally in Europe, America and the Middle East, the place there’s numerous funding in discovering and supporting younger expertise. And stay optimistic.
What recommendation would you give somebody trying to break into trend?
If working in trend will make you content, then you need to discover a strategy to do it.
Every enterprise is hard, however you might want to consider in your self. If that is what you need to do, then you definately simply preserve shifting and preserve pushing [ahead]. Success can be across the nook.
[…] If there isn’t a drive, if there isn’t a want, no enterprise can exist. So, preserve believing and preserve pushing. It’s not simple, nevertheless it’s enjoyable.
Originality and inventive imaginative and prescient will at all times discover an viewers and at all times will at all times have the wanted response. The relaxation is a mix of various abilities that basically must align so as so that you can shine. That mixture will outline how profitable you [are].
Disclaimer: This interview has been edited and condensed for readability.