When H&M introduced its “landmark partnership” with Glenn Martens late final yr, few may have predicted the twists that might observe. Now, because the Belgian designer who was just lately appointed Creative Director of Margeila prepares to unveil his unique capsule assortment on 17 October, the anticipation feels electrical.
Martens, identified for reimagining denim at Diesel and reshaping construction at Y/Project, is the primary designer since Karl Lagerfeld to have his title entrance an H&M collaboration. The outcome, he stated in right this moment’s press convention, is “a love letter to my time at Y/Project and the CEO who passed away.”
At the time of the announcement in November 2024even H&M didn’t know Martens would quickly step into his new position as Creative Director of Maison Margiela. Yet the collaboration, developed lengthy earlier than that seismic transfer, looks like a full-circle reflection of his previous and future – one which balances conceptual design with accessibility.
“We wanted to take H&M archetypes and give them a Glenn Martens twist,” the designer defined at a London preview. “Every single garment can be manipulated, made sleeker or more boyish. It’s really fun, it has so much personality.”
Expect sculptural silhouettes, convertible denims with hook-and-eye fastenings. The foil-lined checked shirts will be manipulated to go well with the wearer, whereas scrunched fishing boots carry conceptual fashion by the truckloads. The designer’s hero piece? The sculptural “scrunch bag” that may be reshaped and manipulated. “It’s probably the best bag I’ve seen in the industry,” he stated with a grin.
For H&M, it’s about pushing boundaries with out shedding wearability. “It’s a matter of balance and finding someone who fits with H&M,” stated Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s Creative Advisor. “Glenn is passionate about democratising fashion. Some designs don’t make it through as they don’t fit with the brand, it’s all about balance.”
The assortment performs with the acquainted – boxer shorts, traditional shirts, tailor-made trousers – however every bit invitations transformation.
Martens and H&M rooted the gathering in Britain’s sartorial heritage. “We went to Britain to think of stereotypical wardrobes,” he stated. “It’s preppy, aristocratic, Highland vibes. It’s almost like creating the family portrait of stereotypical Brits”.
That household portrait is dropped at life in a witty marketing campaign impressed by a Victorian portray of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert at Balmoral. The 2025 model replaces royal grandeur with scaffolding, British trinkets and pigeons galore. During the press convention, the designer hinted that we will anticipate a witty but fabulous solid of British expertise entrance and centre of the scaffolding.
For H&M, this collaboration marks 20 years since its first designer partnership with Karl Lagerfeld – and Martens could have delivered probably the most conceptual and witty one but.
Glenn Martens x H&M will likely be obtainable on-line and in choose shops from 30 October 2025.