To the sound of a 61-piece youngsters’s orchestra (everything of which was wearing dramatically outsized Maison Margiela tuxedos) enjoying completely imperfect renditions of Symphony No. 40 and Beethoven’s Moonlight Sonata, Glenn Martens debuted his first co-ed ready-to-wear assortment for the Belgian trend home throughout Paris Fashion Week. The presentation arrived simply three months after the previous Diesel inventive director showcased his inaugural Artisanal (in any other case referred to as high fashion) assortment for Margiela again in July. That assortment wasn’t for the faint of coronary heart, although at a model like this one, it was by no means supposed to be instantly digestible. It was the sort of couture providing that makes you assume, sending chills down your backbone when you do.
For spring/summer time 2026, although, Martens took a less complicated method, persevering with some themes from his couture debut, however executing them in a way more pared-back and even sensible trend (see Margiela-ized fundamentals, like trench coats, slip attire, and leather-based jackets). He began the present with wearable silhouettes manufactured from denim and leather-based—all of which had been accented with four-stitch mouthpieces resembling the model’s signature non-logo—earlier than finally main showgoers towards some extra experimental designs. Classic Margiela staples made their return, together with the Margiela Futures, a high-top sneaker that obtained a contemporary replace for 2026, in addition to the Tabi Claw, which was first seen within the Artisanal 2025 assortment, however has now made its RTW debut with a futuristic plexiglass wedge heel (worn by Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner at the present). A brand new model of the Box Bag can also be coming quickly, with a softer, slouchier look that is certain to turn into a staple come spring.
For extra on Martens’ first Maison Margiela ready-to-wear assortment, preserve scrolling.
Pieces For Everyone
Like the music enjoying, there have been moments of calm serenity all through the designer’s sartorial unveiling this season, in addition to louder, extra stimulating elements. According to a press launch, “concepts and proposals for real life” had been the primary focus. Tailoring was introduced in a handful of various methods, in denim in addition to extra traditional wool, all the time with touches that really feel inherently Margiela. A white button-down shirt was styled with denims and boots, whereas a slip gown with tiny lace particulars was worn with a leather-based bike jacket. The first 25 or so seems noticed a muted shade palette be prioritized, after which out of the blue, there was a swap. As the gathering slowly approached a crescendo, vibrant colours and patterns started to seem on Martens’ fashions. Dresses with uneven hems had been printed with clashing floral patterns that had been designed to seem like peeling Sixteenth-century wallpaper (an idea first launched within the F/W 25 Artisanal assortment), which had been seen all through the latter half of the present, as was “plasticisation,” one other design approach from couture that was used to make statuesque bodices out of tape. The assortment as a complete had moments for everybody, from subdued fundamentals executed the Margiela approach to robes designed to evoke a variety of feelings.
(Credit picture: Maison Margiela)
(Credit picture: Maison Margiela)
Margiela Mouthpieces
The orchestra’s conductor wore a Maison Margiela go well with adorned on the higher again with the home’s signature four-stitch “logo,” a motif that confirmed up on each single one of many fashions who walked the present—however not in the best way anybody might have anticipated. Whether it is on a sweater or a jacket, we often see the image in the identical place: the again of the neck. For S/S 26, although, it was seen within the type of nearly surgical-looking mouthpieces. According to the present notes, they had been used to give fashions a “uniformity of expression” so as to proceed Maison Margiela’s long-standing emphasis on anonymity.
(Credit picture: Maison Margiela)
(Credit picture: Maison Margiela)
(Credit picture: Maison Margiela)
In With the Slouch Bag
There’s a brand new bag coming to the Belgian home, and it is a hit within the making. A brand new tackle the Box Bag, the slouchy shoulder bag has sharp edges that give it a singular look. Even higher, it options a decorative steel trim in brushed silver, giving the bag an vintage attraction in at the moment’s sea of contemporary purse shapes. According to the present notes, the Box Bag can immediately be made right into a clutch by tucking the straps inside.
(Image credit score: Launchmetrics Spotlight)
(Credit picture: Maison Margiela)
(Credit picture: Maison Margiela)
Kim and Kylie Take the Front Row
It was an awesome day for superstar sightings in Paris on Saturday, with Meghan Markle making her Paris Fashion Week debut at Balenciaga, Ina Garten and her Kelly sitting entrance row at Hermès, and Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner reuniting at Maison Margiela. Kardashian, who debuted her new pixie minimize at Alaïa earlier that day, donned a grey trench coat, a collar necklace, and leather-based boots with a PVC heel. Her youthful sister’s look was rather less subdued, carrying a sheer camisole and matching tights manufactured from paper (!), which had been tucked right into a pair of sharp Tabi wedges.
(Image credit score: Peter White/Getty Images)
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