All sorts of muckiness has a spot here, from the grime and decay endemic to nature and entropy, intercourse and dying, to the messiness of being human and humanity’s many messes. There’s the opening show of Hussein Chalayan’s groundbreaking (actually) 1993 graduate assortment the place he exhumed gown he buried with iron filings in London soil. Fashion’s best tributes to Miss Havisham and her ratty robe, together with a chunk from McQueen’s divisive Highland Rape AW95 present. Foraged trash became treasures, together with Andrew Groves bonkers SS99 showcloser for Cocaine Nights: a gown made out of razor blades from a set impressed by Face/Off. Pizza and pit stains, dirt-soaked hems, and garments which have been torn, buried, soaked, set on hearth and even exploded — as with Issey Miyake’s 1998 undertaking Dragon: Explosion.
