Did London Fashion Week Really Just Create a Rococo Revival?

Looking to the previous to foretell the longer term has lengthy been a foundational component in any dressmaker’s assortment. Take the Y2K pattern, for instance: bandage clothes, heeled flip flops and choker necklaces resurrected from greater than twenty years passed by. Yet, for Spring/Summer 26, the designers at London Fashion Week reached a lot, a lot additional again into the archives—again to a time earlier than automobiles, radios, and even the trendy day fish tank was invented—sure, that final one stunned me, too.

From there, they plucked on one key characteristic: the exaggeration of the hips via bustles, panniers and crinolines—the cage-like frames that sat beneath massive skirts—producing items which are as stunning as they’re steeped in historical past. Take Patrick McDowell’s big-hipped blazers, Simone Rocha’s voluminous frocks, Natasha Zinko’s gothic robes, and even Erdem’s vintage-like night apparel. But why the return of the attention-grabbing petticoat?

“I think we are seeing crinolines everywhere in Spring/Summer 26 collections from Reem Acra at New York Fashion Week to Simone Rocha at London Fashion Week (we actually saw them take centre stage at Couture Fashion Week earlier this year, too) because we have moved into a gilded era where excess is sought and being celebrated by the elite,” shares superstar stylist and style skilled Marian for as one attainable reply.

Another? The undeniable fact that the Rococo period is trending. Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi’s new Wuthering Heights film trailer has simply dropped to loads of applause—sure, it is Victorian, however the style follows related guidelines. And Marie Antoinette’s type exhibition has simply opened on the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, swiftly following the presumed French Queen’s pink diamond ring promoting at £10 million at motion in June this yr. Clearly, it is the season of a Rococo and Victorian renaissance.

“Marie Antoinette was possibly the first true style influencer and reference to her excess with regards her style is back inspiring fashion,” provides Kwei. Although this isn’t the primary time we’ve gone down this highway: in 2006 Sofia Coppola launched her Marie Antoinette movie; in 2007 Girls Aloud’s I Can’t Speak French video drew on Rococo revival; and Dior’s Haute Couture 2007 assortment featured petticoats and lavish pink palettes.

So clearly the twenty-year pattern cycle remains to be standing agency, even when the unique inspiration occurred a lot (a lot) longer earlier than. And, as Kwei confirms, it additionally traces up with the more-is-more outset we’re presently seeing throughout style circles—bag charms, dopamine dressing, and Labubu’s included. Although how Marie Antoinette would really feel concerning the latter, I’ll go away to your personal creativeness.