Milan: An invitation to journey with Calcaterra, J. Salinas and Pierre-Louis Mascia

After the rain that spoiled a part of trend week, the ultimate day of Milan’s in-person catwalk reveals drew to an in depth in model beneath an azure sky on Sunday. Before the much-anticipated Giorgio Armani present that rounded off the day, a number of collections stood out for his or her artistic richness, every designer immersing onlookers in a definite world, from Calcaterra’s Berber-accented trend to the virtuoso knitwear crafted by Peruvian artisans for J.Salinas, by way of the cinematic and 18th-century inspirations of Pierre-Louis Mascia.

Yves Montand’s heat voice buzzing “Les Feuilles Mortes” opened Pierre-Louis Mascia’s enchanting present; he’s unrivalled in conjuring a poetic ambiance steeped in nostalgia. For his new assortment, the Toulouse-born designer drew inspiration from his favorite movie, Marcel Carné’s “Les Enfants du Paradis”.

“The setting is a theatre, and the theme revolves around impossible love affairs. This black-and-white film, shot during the war, sets the tone for the collection with faded, dusty, sun-bleached hues, into which colour gradually seeps,” he defined.

Another supply of inspiration is the 18th-century materials and silk jacquards of court docket attire held within the archives of the Musée Galliera, to which Mascia gained entry as a part of a partnership between the label and the Paris establishment, to be introduced subsequent March.

These two strands culminated in a refined, supremely elegant assortment, with silk taking the lead in shimmering, fluid items. The mild, snug clothes featured only a few fastenings and eschewed superfluous particulars. Front and centre had been Mascia’s drawings and illustrations, together with twenty-one new unique prints during which various themes collide in finely calibrated steadiness.

Landscapes in India ink, foliage, toile de Jouy, animal prints, tapestry results, summary or geometric motifs, and paisley all come collectively harmoniously in valuable silhouettes. Somewhat silk robe-style coat slipped, revealing a shoulder. Blouses matched skirts in the identical tones, whereas their prints evoked imaginary, melancholy tales.

Blouses and slip attire had been lower from finely fringed shawls. Delicate tunics fell to the knee over trousers tied on the ankle, at occasions recalling saris. Lightweight overcoats whirled above shirts and skirts common from silky materials. Backed by his accomplice, the Como silk printer Achille Pinto, Mascia additionally supplied this season a panoramic sequence of silk items that completely simulate denim. Since he started exhibiting, his visibility has grown. For 2025, income is anticipated to rise by 15%.

For Spring/Summer 2026, Daniele Calcaterra conceived a journey by way of time and cultures, leaping between the twenties, forties and nineties, with a detour by way of the Sahara. The assortment oscillated between austere, masculine rigour and sensuous, free-flowing femininity.

On one aspect, there have been trench coats, overcoats and, above all, fits with wide-lapel jackets, outsized males’s waistcoats and generously lower trousers with rounded strains, whose quantity imbued ladies with energy. This snug, sensible wardrobe was conceived for on a regular basis life, that includes, amongst different items, two-tone denims, the traditional striped shirt elongated right into a tunic on the again, a slit pencil skirt and an elegant swimsuit with a swirling skirt.

On the opposite, the wardrobe turned extra lustrous and fluid, with lengthy fringed silk attire that caressed the physique, cloud-like tops punctuated with ostrich feathers or fashioned from sequence of positive fringes in differing lengths, and sheer organza appears to be like. Scarves had been labored into outfits to lend an ethereal contact, whether or not in skirts or T-shirts. They had been generally draped over the shoulders like little capes, or tied across the neck.

Ethnic particulars ran all through, corresponding to Berber jewelry and belts edging the collars and cuffs of sure blouses.

For his second Milan present, J.Salinas enlisted the companies of stylist Anna Dello Russo. Designer Jorge Luis Salinas, decided to win over the European market, pulled out all of the stops, staging his present in a chic, sun-drenched city-centre backyard.

Ever centered on knitwear, the Peruvian couturier—who deploys numerous knitting strategies to crochet sinuous mermaid attire in a large number of stitches—broadened his supply this season with extra wearable items designed for a Western clientele. These embody mini attire, miniskirts, shorts, flared trousers, jackets and cropped tops with ruffled shoulders, tied on the again with lengthy knitted ribbons.

The assortment was introduced in a pastel palette of dragée pink, sage inexperienced, sky blue and tangerine, spotlighting Peruvian craftsmanship. Each piece was knitted in Pima cotton by native craftswomen, then assembled to create openwork clothes composed of a cascade of motifs (roses, flowers, raised polka dots, feathers, shells, and scales), layers of doilies and different lace which, organized in garlands, traced curves and whorls across the physique.

Salinas collaborates with communities of craftswomen throughout the nation—round fifty knitters who enrich his work, every bringing her personal concepts and abilities. Seven of them had been current in Milan on Sunday. They got here to greet the general public of their conventional costume to a spherical of applause.