Hidden throughout the manicured lawns of Kensington Gardens in London’s Hyde Park is Perks Field, a non-public inexperienced area initially deliberate within the seventeenth century by George London and Henry Wise.
But for London Fashion Week it grew to become Daniel Lee’s stage. The inventive director remodeled it into a rustic dreamscape for Burberry’s spring/summer time 2026 present.
Under a printed blue-gray sky and strolling throughout a ground the color of damp soil, Lee despatched out a group that took the model’s heritage items – the trench, the examine, the structured fits – and made them really feel like rave outfits for a pageant within the Cotswolds.
Tartan with a twist (Jeff Moore/PA)
The assortment was a remix of acquainted codes into one thing extra tactile, eccentric and pageant-prepared: a revival of previous British countryside dressing for a brand new viewers.
Since taking up at Burberry in 2022, Lee has made no secret of wanting to revive a distinctly British spirit to the home, reviving archival logos, emphasising conventional materials and silhouettes and foregrounding the trench and tartan as pillars of its identification.
Lee nonetheless implored the traditional trench (Jeff Moore/PA)
This was actually obvious for his newest assortment. The temper was set from the opening look: a double-breasted tartan trench in deep mustard leather-based worn with chunky biker boots, without delay aristocratic and rugged.
Next got here smooth three-piece fits in olive pinstripe with python boots, pale denim jackets layered over graphic T-shirts and a vivid inexperienced leather-based trench worn with wraparound sun shades.
Denim fits made an look (Jeff Moore/PA)
Everything felt just a little looser and just a little extra lived-in than earlier Burberry collections – as if the ensembles had been borrowed from a nicely-stocked higher-class wardrobe.
Colours had been intentionally dusty or offbeat, as a palette of khaki, mustard, chocolate and washed denim spilt out onto the runway, punctuated by jolts of lime, turquoise and tomato purple – vibrant hues which were trending on runways all week.
Mustard leather-based trenches appeared on the runway (Jeff Moore/PA)
Bright crochet and fringe was a staple pattern (Jeff Moore/PA)
Lee doubled down on Burberry’s most recognisable motif, turning the examine from a discreet lining right into a full-look proposition.
Swing coats, trench clothes and minis got here in acid-inexperienced and crimson tartans or sky-blue plaids, styled with biker boots or sandals to drag again any prim-and-proper associations.
Even the scarves had been dramatic: lengthy fringed strips of moss or turquoise trailing to the knees, echoing saddle blankets and pageant flags.
Long, fringed scarves had been key within the assortment (Jeff Moore/PA)
A mannequin on the catwalk on the Burberry present(Jeff Moore/PA)
Crochet clothes – one in ivory, one in vibrant inexperienced – added a hand-crafted softness and appeared intentionally mismatched with the sensible outerwear slung nonchalantly over an arm.
Bags had been slouchy leather-based with fringe; boots had been desert or python; sun shades had been outsized shields, hinting at racing days and membership nights alike.
Lee managed to show any stuffy associations with heritage and custom right into a cooler, younger vitality.
The iconic Burberry trench appeared in a number of guises – denim-washed, cropped in chocolate leather-based, reimagined in sky-blue fringe – and was typically carried moderately than worn, suggesting motion and layering moderately than a single uniform.
The trench coat had a restyle in sky-blue fringe (Jeff Moore/PA)
Tailoring was minimize lengthy and smooth, with skinny ties dangling and cuffs spilling previous wrists, as if Lee was loosening the formalities of Savile Row. There was nostalgia within the palette and proportions – evoking a Nineteen Eighties scene of a metropolis banker going rural or a company employee fleeing to a pageant.
It’s a tough balancing act. Burberry’s energy lies in its Britishness, however in recent times the home has wrestled with the right way to make that heritage resonate with youthful, international prospects with out dropping its aura of luxurious.
This present instructed Lee’s reply is to lean right into a retro sensible-countryside aesthetic – the aristocratic trench and tartan reframed with craft, color and practicality – in order that the identical items can transfer between metropolis and nation, work and weekend.
The iconic Burberry tartan was reimagined in sequins and metallics (Jeff Moore/PA)
It appeared designed not only for unpredictable climate however for unpredictable style, an adaptable wardrobe of icons moderately than a set of uniforms.
Staged beneath a synthetic English sky in a backyard as soon as designed for royalty, the spring/summer time 2026 assortment felt just like the clearest assertion but of Lee’s imaginative and prescient. It didn’t merely revisit the previous however handled it as a dwelling archive to be worn, blended and dirtied.
A mannequin on the catwalk on the Burberry present (Jeff Moore/PA)
As eclectic as the gathering was, so was the viewers. Celebrities and royals alike stuffed the entrance row, together with Princess Maria Olympia of Greece and Denmark, Twiggy, Skepta, Maya Jama and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.