As a magnificence editor, I’ve examined a whole bunch—if not 1000’s—of perfumes, however I solely preserve a number of on my dressing desk. They’re the chosen ones—aka the bottles of varied sizes and shapes that I’ve deemed worthy sufficient to be there. You see, I rank my fragrances by the situation I preserve them. If a perfume is nice, I preserve it in a storage field in my wardrobe, so I can entry it occasionally. If a perfume is nice, I preserve it in a chosen drawer for even simpler entry. It’s solely when a perfume is actually distinctive that I place it in prime view, proper atop my dressing. That’s the case with Frederic Malle’s iconic Portrait of a Lady (£290).
The History
I used to be extraordinarily privileged to attach with the grasp perfumer who created the long-lasting fragrance, Dominique Ropionwho’s so well-known within the perfume world, he’s been dubbed “the master of flowers” because of his potential to create distinctive floral scents.
Interestingly, the genesis of Portrait of a Lady started with one other Frédéric Malle perfume: Geranium for sir. Ropion says Malle imagined a female model that might retain its amber and balsamic base. “From this foundation, I had the idea of adding an exceptional quantity of Turkish rose absolute and essence. By pairing it with a chypre touch, it gave the fragrance incredible elegance and a lot of character. It was an instant revelation.”
Although this fragrance was initially launched in 2010, it is as timeless and stylish as ever. I’m not the one one who thinks so. Celebrities like Madonna, Catherine Deneuve, and David Beckham are even followers of it. To have a good time its fifteenth anniversary, the model launched a limited-edition bottle in pink lacquer—the Maison’s signature color, and I used to be fortunate sufficient to get my fingers on one.
The Scent
(Image credit score: @kaitlyn_mclintock)
Portrait of a Lady is a chypre perfume. Chypre is a class of fragrances usually described as complicated, mysterious, and alluring. These scents sometimes function citrus high notes, floral center notes, and mossy or earthy base notes. Portrait of a Lady definitely encompasses the complexity, thriller, and attract of the chypre class—albeit uniquely so. And the key lies in its virtually unbelievable focus. Apparently, 400 flowers go right into a single 100ml bottle. But don’t assume meaning it’s heady and overbearing. In reality, it’s fairly the other—elegant, enigmatic, and surprisingly androgynous.
This is a kind of uncommon fragrances that works simply as properly for a twenty-something because it does for somebody of their fifties, sixties or past. “The timelessness of a fragrance,” Ropion says, “[is] a secret every perfumer wishes to unlock! In my view, the key is to create with heart and emotion, to follow intuition rather than trends. Sometimes, this is what allows a scent to resonate more deeply in the collective unconscious. Portrait of a Lady is all about noble materials—true haute parfumerie! At Frédéric Malle, both the ingredients and the story behind the creation are equally essential, each as important as the other.
The Review
“This perfume has something hypnotic about it—a fierce sensuality with a lot of character,” Ropion says. “The appeal of Turkish rose is elevated by a coronary heart of patchouli, nuanced with sandalwood and incense. Very ambery and woody, Portrait of a Lady simply avoids gender categorisation regardless of its title, because the pores and skin of the lady or man who wears it doesn’t react any in a different way.”
And it should come as no surprise that this iconic scent is loved by our editors on both sides of the pond.
(Image credit score: Who What Wear UK)
Who What Wear UK magnificence editor Eleanor Vousden says, “This is a perfume with a capital P. It’s a voluptuous, mysterious rose that blooms on the skin for hours on end and commands any room you walk into. For that reason, it’s not for the faint-hearted—this is a scent that gets you noticed. It’s the type of fragrance I can imagine being worn by a sophisticated woman who oozes confidence and French exits at parties. This isn’t your nana’s rose perfume, but a blood-red rose with dark, velvety petals that you’d find on the vanity table of a femme fatale. It’s a little spicy, while the patchouli gives an earthiness that makes it all the more addictive next to the jamminess of the rose.”
Who What Wear UK magnificence editorial assistant Brittany Davy says, “I must admit, I hopped onto the hype of this scent a lot later than my fellow editors, but I’m already obsessed. I went into the store a couple of weeks ago to try it after hearing the Who What Wear beauty team talk about it in the office, and trust me when I say that it did not disappoint. It’s a warm and elegant fragrance that’s filled with all of my favourite notes from cinnamon and vanilla to patchouli and incense. I can already see myself wearing this heavier fragrance throughout the autumn and winter seasons, sitting in a fancy restaurant with a glass of wine in hand. In fact, I’ve already purchased this scent online in anticipation of the temperature drop here in the UK. And I know that once it arrives, it will have a permanent spot on my dressing table.”
Who What Wear US magnificence editor Kaitlyn McLintock says, “Even though it’s called Portrait of a Lady, I don’t think this scent is tied to gender at all. It smells neither traditionally feminine nor traditionally masculine. Personally, I think this has a lot to do with the strong patchouli note. When I smell this fragrance, I get fresh rose—stem, leaf, and all—along with patchouli first. As it dries down on my skin, the blackcurrant, raspberry, and sandalwood notes emerge. Again, it’s just so elegant and alluring. It makes me want to stroll along the Seine at nightfall, watching the Eiffel Tower sparkle in the distance.”