September will always be synonymous with school, whether you’re 14 or 44, which might explain why the hemline of the season is the one you last wore to sit your GCSEs. It might appear sexless compared to minis and lack the drama of maxis, but, nevertheless, knee-length skirts can officially be considered the new cool-girl uniform.
They cropped up on many of the autumn catwalks, making a surprisingly convincing argument for the kind of skirt that creates a shadow on the knee cap (no rolling at the waist necessary). At Calvin Klein Collection, knee-length skirts were the bottom half of boxily-cut suits, their rather straight-up-and-down silhouette contrasting with the blazer’s ‘power’ shoulders. If that was an office-appropriate interpretation, Ferragamo offered a brilliant foil: skirts that finished on the knee with slits that shot upwards. At Miu Miu, meanwhile, every skirt was knee-length, its hemline revealing no more than a centimetre or two of thigh. The vibe was a twist on trad, bookish yet subversive, with styling touches that included bouffant hair, door-knocker earrings and, in another endorsement for the knee, pulled-up socks.
Sensing the change about to hit the world of hemlines, Copenhagen Fashion Week’s street stylers piloted knee-length skirts ahead of this month’s ready-to-wear shows in the ‘core four’ cities. One ticket-holder came dressed for second period, wearing a crossover tweed skirt that terminated at the knee, leather boat shoes, white ankle socks, a blazer and, get this, a string of pearls. This wasn’t so much school uniform cosplay but a comfortingly familiar take on the kind of staples that will always feel right in September (who says no to a sturdy leather sole after a summer in plastic flip-flops?).
Influencer Hollie Mercedes Peters packed several iterations, including a green-and-burgundy kilt, which flared to her knee, as well as printed versions in gingham checks and exaggerated florals. (Her trick for modernising the knee-length skirt’s girlish silhouette appeared to be an oversized wool shacket or sporty blouson that stretched to below the hip, FYI.)
This isn’t to say you can’t wear minis, midis and maxis this autumn, it’s just that nothing will deliver the clothing equivalent of that fresh-pencil-case feeling quite like a knee-length skirt. Shoppers are steadily being converted. At Net-a-Porter, searches for ‘knee-length skirts’ have increased by 1,400% over the past six months, with compellingly modern versions from Acne Studios (pleated crepe de chine), Gucci (embossed patent leather) and Stella McCartney (lace-trimmed satin).
There are also plenty of knee-length skirts on the high street that get an A*. Massimo Dutti’s box-pleated skirt in school-issue charcoal is entirely sold out (sign up to get alerted when it’s restocked). Mango’s denim versionwhich is gently A-line, is also a gateway into the world of knee-length skirts if pleats or checks feel a bit on the nose. (The way it’s styled on the website, with a paisley blouse, cropped jacket, sheer tights and slingbacks, is one way to put a boho spin on the skirt.)
In fact, pairing your knee-length skirt with something unexpected is the key to getting a glowing report card this month. Try a white tank, an embellished bomber and buckled knee-high boots. Or a slogan tee, aviator jacket and ballet sneakers.
On the other hand, you could go properly ‘head girl’ with a rugby shirt or a cricket jumper, accessorising with a leather satchel, penny loafers and knee-high socks. The former too-cool-for-school girl in you might shudder at showing just a hint of knee but, this September, there’s nothing more on point.
Damson Madder Tan Kat Kilt, £ 80
Damson Madder kilt
Damson Madder
Joseph maroon skirt, £945
Joseph suede skirt
Joseph
Arket brown frill skirt, £75
Arket brown frill skirt
Arket
Mango Midi denim skirt, £35.99
Mango midi skirt
Mango
Ganni check suiting skirt, £345
Ganni knee-length skirt, £345
Wada